MATERIALS I USE
STEEL: 5160, 052100, 1084, 1095, L6, 15N20,W2. From time to time I forge blades from files, automotive coil and leaf springs, bearing races, lawn mower blades, and saw blades, both circular and band, from saw mills.
HANDLE MATERIAL: I like natural materials best, so I use North American deer, elk, and moose antler, reindeer antler, domestic hardwoods such as curly maple, ash, oak, walnut, and hardwoods from around the world. These include massur birch, various members of the rosewood family, african blackwood, acacia, purple heart, pink ivory, coco bolo, and whatever else grabs my attention when I am shopping in a good supply house or knife show.
SHEATHS: I normally use heavy harness leather for sheaths for hunting knives. Some of the knives of other countries had sheaths of wood, or with wood liners and leather covers. Examples are dirks and sgian dubhs of Scotland, and puukko and Saami knives from Finland. I usually make sheaths similar to those customarily made in those countries. I also make the wood lined sheaths for Bowie knives, daggers, and other large blades if the customer wishes.
Sheaths are stitched by hand, and , with few exceptions, I make all of them. They are finished with a good water proofing compound that helps to protect the leather from drying out. I do not use rivets at stress points, but usually do a double row of stitches and include a heavy welt to protect the stitches from the razor sharp blade.
Sheaths are lightly tooled, and have my logo of 3 hammers in the upper corner near the stitching. The hammers indicate that the knife in the sheath was hand forged by me. I normally dye the sheaths dark brown prior to applying the finish, but can leave them natural or dye them any color the customer prefers, as long as I think it will complement the sheath and the knife.
Most hunting knives are made with a full finger guard that keeps the fingers away from the keen edge of the blade. Sometimes I make a minimal guard that simply lets the hand know the right way to hold the knife. Rarely do I make a knife without a guard. Most Scandinavian knives are made without a guard, and I will make that style if the customer insists, but I prefer to make a small guard that feels more comfortable and secure--and safe!
Whenever possible I make what are called pouch sheaths. These are made to fit the knife and cover the blade and lower half to 2/3 of the handle. The sheaths are very secure, and keep the knife from falling or bouncing out. The knife will not come out without a deliberate effort to withdraw it from the sheath, although it does not require a lot of effort. There are no straps or snaps on these sheaths. The knife can be removed from the sheath and replaced with one hand.
For larger knives that have a double guard, such as Bowie knives, I make the more traditional flat sheath with a security strap that is fastened with a Sam Browne button, not a snap. These sheaths also have heavy welts to protect the stitches from the blade edge.
STEEL: 5160, 052100, 1084, 1095, L6, 15N20,W2. From time to time I forge blades from files, automotive coil and leaf springs, bearing races, lawn mower blades, and saw blades, both circular and band, from saw mills.
HANDLE MATERIAL: I like natural materials best, so I use North American deer, elk, and moose antler, reindeer antler, domestic hardwoods such as curly maple, ash, oak, walnut, and hardwoods from around the world. These include massur birch, various members of the rosewood family, african blackwood, acacia, purple heart, pink ivory, coco bolo, and whatever else grabs my attention when I am shopping in a good supply house or knife show.
SHEATHS: I normally use heavy harness leather for sheaths for hunting knives. Some of the knives of other countries had sheaths of wood, or with wood liners and leather covers. Examples are dirks and sgian dubhs of Scotland, and puukko and Saami knives from Finland. I usually make sheaths similar to those customarily made in those countries. I also make the wood lined sheaths for Bowie knives, daggers, and other large blades if the customer wishes.
Sheaths are stitched by hand, and , with few exceptions, I make all of them. They are finished with a good water proofing compound that helps to protect the leather from drying out. I do not use rivets at stress points, but usually do a double row of stitches and include a heavy welt to protect the stitches from the razor sharp blade.
Sheaths are lightly tooled, and have my logo of 3 hammers in the upper corner near the stitching. The hammers indicate that the knife in the sheath was hand forged by me. I normally dye the sheaths dark brown prior to applying the finish, but can leave them natural or dye them any color the customer prefers, as long as I think it will complement the sheath and the knife.
Most hunting knives are made with a full finger guard that keeps the fingers away from the keen edge of the blade. Sometimes I make a minimal guard that simply lets the hand know the right way to hold the knife. Rarely do I make a knife without a guard. Most Scandinavian knives are made without a guard, and I will make that style if the customer insists, but I prefer to make a small guard that feels more comfortable and secure--and safe!
Whenever possible I make what are called pouch sheaths. These are made to fit the knife and cover the blade and lower half to 2/3 of the handle. The sheaths are very secure, and keep the knife from falling or bouncing out. The knife will not come out without a deliberate effort to withdraw it from the sheath, although it does not require a lot of effort. There are no straps or snaps on these sheaths. The knife can be removed from the sheath and replaced with one hand.
For larger knives that have a double guard, such as Bowie knives, I make the more traditional flat sheath with a security strap that is fastened with a Sam Browne button, not a snap. These sheaths also have heavy welts to protect the stitches from the blade edge.